Transforming Summer Grilling: The Rise of Plant-Based Burgers and Their Quest to Win Over Meat Lovers

The classic summer scene of a succulent hamburger grilling in the backyard may be undergoing a transformation. Companies like Beyond Meat, Impossible Foods, and other innovative startups are leading a significant initiative in the food industry: discovering the perfect combination of peas, coconut oil, potato proteins, and various plant-based ingredients that replicate the beloved qualities of ground beef. If they can win over even the most discerning meat lovers, the financial rewards for these emerging companies could be substantial, positioning them directly against multi-billion dollar meat producers who are already taking notice.

“To make an impact, we must appeal to meat consumers — that has been our goal from the very beginning,” stated Nick Halla, chief strategy officer of Impossible Foods, in an interview with Food Dive. “The way people connect with their meat sources is bound to evolve. Currently, many individuals are not deeply tied to the idea of their meat coming from animals; they simply want it to taste good.”

Reproducing the flavor of real meat has been a slow and deliberate process, but that is often by design. Manufacturers are cautious about launching a product prematurely, fearing that an early rollout could alienate meat aficionados or evoke memories of the frozen veggie burgers that have dominated the market for years. To draw in consumers beyond the typical vegetarian and vegan demographics, plant-based meats need to deliver the same flavor, texture, and aroma that have tantalized humans since ancient times.

Initially, the emphasis on plant-based meat has centered on the beef market. Industry data indicates that in 2016, an estimated 7.3 billion pounds of ground beef were purchased by food service operators and sold by stores, generating revenues exceeding $2 million. Plant-based meat producers are optimistic that capturing even a small portion of this market could position them as key players in the food sector, and they need meat eaters to help achieve that.

Evidence suggests this is more than mere speculation: A 2015 report from NPD Group, Midan Marketing, and Meatingplace revealed that 70% of meat consumers substitute non-meat proteins in their meals at least once a week. Moreover, 22% of those respondents indicated they are using non-meat proteins more frequently than the previous year — a promising sign for growth in this category. Last year, total plant-based meat sales exceeded $606 million—excluding data from Whole Foods—with refrigerated meat alternatives experiencing a 15.9% surge, according to retail sales company SPINS. As research continues to refine plant-based beef to more closely mimic animal-derived products, there is optimism that increasing numbers of consumers will opt for these alternatives, further boosting sales.

Employees at Impossible Foods, founded in 2011 by Stanford University biochemistry professor Patrick Brown, dedicated the first four years to quietly deconstructing the hamburger. Scientists tackled the complex challenge of replicating a burger without actual meat by addressing equally intricate questions: Why do people enjoy meat? What causes its texture to shift from soft to firm when cooked? Where do the enticing flavors and aromas originate when it’s grilled?

Instead of merely adding colors or flavors, as earlier brands attempted, they delved into the chemistry behind these phenomena before seeking plant-based solutions to recreate their innovative meat. “The methods used so far have not resulted in products that meat consumers would prefer over what they currently enjoy,” said Halla, who grew up on a Minnesota dairy farm but now consumes 90% less meat due to its environmental implications. “We need to discover a new way to produce food.”

During their research, Impossible Foods identified a compound known as heme that contributes to meat’s color and delicious flavor while enhancing other tastes during cooking. After months of investigation, scientists found that legume hemoglobin from the legume plant could trigger the same chemical reactions when heated. Additionally, they aimed to replicate the textural transformation beef undergoes when cooked, which they accomplished using wheat and potato proteins.

Today, the burger features four primary ingredients: heme, coconut oil, wheat, and potato proteins. After developing thousands of meat prototypes over the past few years, a team of nearly 100 researchers is still refining the product in the company’s expansive laboratory located in Silicon Valley.

Impossible Foods has strategically introduced its products in restaurants — now present in venues across Los Angeles, Las Vegas, New York City, and San Francisco — allowing restaurant staff to experience the product firsthand and subsequently educate curious consumers. The price for one burger ranges from $12 to $19, comparable to a typical entrée or upscale appetizer.

While these startups recognize that many people are hesitant to abandon meat, they are eager to attract barbecuers and food enthusiasts who are increasingly making healthier choices based on personal values like environmental sustainability and humane animal treatment. Producing an Impossible Burger, for instance, requires about 1/20th the land, a quarter of the water, and generates only 1/8th the greenhouse gas emissions compared to traditional beef, according to the company. For health-conscious individuals, plant-based burgers are often lower in fat, cholesterol-free, and typically offer more protein than conventional burgers.

Beyond Meat has been developing plant-based meats since 2009, launching its first commercial product — chicken strips — three years later. Like Impossible Foods, Beyond Meat has dissected the traditional meat burger, exploring nature to replicate its characteristics, a process marked by trial and error. The company initially experimented with various ingredients, such as pomegranate juice, to achieve the meat’s red color, eventually settling on beet juice, which caramelizes during cooking, creating grill marks similar to those on real burgers.

Beyond Meat’s first burger was introduced in 2015, but it has since been succeeded by the popular Beyond Burger, designed to mimic the 80% protein, 20% fat profile found in traditional supermarket meat. The Beyond Burger, which sizzles and releases fat while cooking, has become a sensation, selling more than ten times faster than its next best-selling product. It has garnered a devoted following on social media, with many families surprised to learn that what they thought was beef was actually plant-based.

“As a company, we believe there’s still room for improvement,” said Will Schafer, Beyond Meat’s vice president of marketing. “We’re in the right range, but I still think the burger doesn’t quite match beef perfectly, so we remain eager to enhance that aspect.”

The company has assembled a team of scientists dedicated to adjusting the delicate balance of ingredients to improve the meat’s chewiness, deepen its color when cooked, and enhance its aroma and flavor.

The potential market for plant-based meat products has not gone unnoticed. Impossible Foods has raised over $180 million from investors, including billionaire Bill Gates and Google, which reportedly sought to purchase the company for as much as $300 million. Beyond Meat, too, has attracted notable investors, including the Humane Society of the United States, General Mills, and Tyson Foods, which acquired a 5% stake in the company last fall. Beyond Meat is hopeful of expanding its relationship with Tyson beyond investment, as it aims to leverage the meat giant’s extensive distribution network to increase product availability in more stores and restaurants. Earlier this month, the company bolstered its executive team by hiring Charles Muth, a former vice president of sales for Coca-Cola’s venturing and emerging brands division, as its chief growth officer to oversee retail and food service distribution.

“Organizations like Tyson recognize that more people are integrating plant-based meals into their diets, and they see the landscape shifting,” Schafer noted. Monica McGurk, executive vice president at Tyson, stated that the investment offers the company “exposure to a fast-growing segment of the protein market,” aligning with its objective to provide consumers with choices while maintaining focus on its core prepared foods and animal protein businesses.

Christie Lagally, a senior scientist at the Good Food Institute, a nonprofit promoting meat alternatives, has been vegan since 1995. After sampling the Impossible Burger in San Francisco last summer, she found it reminiscent of meat, making it difficult to finish. “It was a very visceral experience,” she shared. “It transported me back to a time when I consumed meat.” Lagally remains optimistic about the new generation of plant-based burgers, labeling them as “high-quality foods” with well-sourced ingredients. However, she expresses concern about whether these products can be scaled and priced competitively enough to attract a broader consumer base.

“People consume meat because it tastes good, is convenient, and is high in protein and calories,” she explained. “For plant-based meats to significantly affect the consumption of animal-based meats, they must be accessible to the general public. They cannot remain a niche market.”

For years, the frozen veggie burger was predominantly represented by brands like Kraft Heinz’s Boca Burger. Beyond Meat has now positioned its burger in the meat section at Whole Foods, a move they describe as escaping the “penalty box” of the frozen food aisle. The average price for two quarter-pound burgers is $5.99, significantly higher than premium grass-fed organic beef. Ongoing discussions are in place with other well-known retailers to carry the product, according to Schafer.

“The fact that we are now competing head-on with meat is incredibly validating,” Schafer asserted. “We’ve seen this repeatedly on social media, with self-identified red-blooded carnivores trying the burger and responding with surprise. They may not give up meat forever, but many are saying they will incorporate it into their diets.”

Marion Nestle, a professor of nutrition, food studies, and public health at New York University, told Food Dive that plant-based meats are here to stay as they solve a “culinary problem” for many vegetarians, vegans, and advocates for animal welfare. Nevertheless, this has yet to convince her — a consumer of both plants and meat — to embrace these alternatives. “One of my food rules is to avoid anything artificial,” she stated in an email. “While I understand that those who don’t eat meat miss hamburgers, I don’t quite grasp this trend. I simply want the meat I consume to come from animals treated as humanely as possible.”

This presents a challenge for plant-based meat manufacturers. For now, Beyond Meat and Impossible Foods are striving to find the right formulas to entice skeptical eaters, but whether they can attract enough consumers to rival real beef hamburgers on a larger scale remains uncertain.