For Royd Carlson, the small teff grain plays a significant role in his life. Carlson’s father worked in public health in Ethiopia during the 1970s, gaining an in-depth understanding of the culture and cuisine of the East African nation. After returning to the U.S. a few years later, he witnessed Ethiopian refugees arriving due to political turmoil and famine in their homeland. As his father reminisced about the vital role of teff, a tiny grain approximately the size of a poppy seed, in their diets, Carlson decided to collaborate with farmers to cultivate it in the Western U.S. This led to the establishment of a business aimed at introducing teff to Ethiopian and Eritrean-Americans, as well as other Americans who were largely unaware of its versatility beyond being an ingredient in injera, a light and slightly spongy sour flatbread.
“We initially sold on a small scale,” Carlson recalled. “My parents had a tiny flour mill in the basement, and we would fill up flour bags and send them out. The business just grew from there.” Today, Carlson serves as the marketing manager at the Teff Company, a rapidly expanding producer of the grain used by smaller food manufacturers, a national bakery chain, and a leading producer of gluten-free baked goods and tortillas. Despite achieving steady growth in the teens and surpassing $1 million in annual sales, the company has larger ambitions: it aims to make teff as common as quinoa, reaching a diverse consumer base. Executives acknowledge that this goal will be challenging.
“It’s still on the fringes, much like quinoa was a decade ago,” stated TJ Anderson, the Teff Company’s business manager. “It’s market viable, but many people still aren’t fully aware of it.” This is in stark contrast to its use in Ethiopia, where over 90% of the crop is cultivated. Teff grains, which can be white, mixed, or red, contribute to about two-thirds of the daily protein intake in the Ethiopian diet, where they are transformed into injera, porridge, and animal feed, according to the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization.
To encourage more U.S. farmers to cultivate teff and to boost its purchase by businesses and consumers, the Idaho-based company is actively promoting the ingredient, known for its earthy and nutty flavor. Similar to other grains, teff boasts numerous attributes sought after by consumers. It is rich in iron, magnesium, fiber, calcium, and protein while being gluten-free. Farmers in the Western U.S. highlight its favorable environmental footprint compared to other grains, including lower water usage and compatibility with crop rotation.
Stephen Foster, an associate professor at the University of Nevada, Reno, noted that while teff requires less water due to its short growing season, its small size poses harvesting challenges. Additionally, it needs effective marketing and processing. He speculated that, for the time being, teff would remain a niche product. For teff to gain wider acceptance, he suggested it must be more vigorously marketed for its gluten-free qualities, a message he feels is currently lacking.
Teff Company, along with its 21 employees, is collaborating with online influencers to increase visibility by creating recipes that feature the grain and flour, promoting it as a more accessible product. Simultaneously, the company is developing food samples like crackers, chips, breakfast cereals, pasta, and bread made with teff to showcase its versatility to potential food manufacturers. “Our goal is to make teff a staple,” Carlson emphasized. “We are definitely trying to spread the word.”
While teff is packed with benefits not as prevalent in other grains, it does present some inherent challenges. The most significant issue is that teff is high in fiber, meaning it absorbs more water than other flours, according to Carlson. This necessitates recipe adjustments for food manufacturers to achieve the desired consistency. Teff’s density also makes it less effective on its own in leavened products like bread. Factors like density, elasticity, and particle size complicate its substitution for other flours on a one-for-one basis, he noted.
Anderson commented that Teff Company has not been aggressively marketing teff because it is already selling what it contracts with farmers to produce. The current approach allows the company to recruit new farmers and scale up teff production while ensuring they meet demand without excess grain left unsold. Last year, the acreage dedicated to growing teff for Teff Company increased by about 25%.
“Some might think, ‘Here’s a small, rapidly growing company filled with business-minded individuals looking to profit or sell off their brand,’” Anderson remarked. “But it’s really about elevating and showcasing a product that may be undervalued and finding a way to integrate it into broader culture.” With its rich profile that includes high levels of ccm calcium among other nutrients, teff has the potential to become a staple in many households, provided the right marketing and education efforts are put in place.